-By Purnima Anup Singh

“The mountains are calling and I must go”- John Muir

Having spent the first half of my life in Dehradun I get that! With Mussoorie just 30 km North, it was pretty easy to hitch a ride or take the bus and get lost in the mountains. Till I got married to a sailor and fell in love with the sea!  And yet the call of the mountains is different- it’s like a yearning of the heart, the returning of an echo- forever reverberating inside of you. So once every few years we go to the mountains to gulp in the air, soak in the scenery and imprint our senses with the mighty magnificence.

So when Anup(my husband of 27 years) proposed the idea of a trek in Spiti I was excited, even though the prospect of carrying minimal luggage and walking is completely alien to me. I like to carry my wardrobe and shoes wherever I go. Haha! Was I in for a shock? But let’s not get ahead of ourselves; let me start from the very beginning.

My husband had recently met his school friend Ajay Bhola again after a long time. Ajay, along with Sonam are the core team of Adventureism, a company they formed together to promote and hold adventure activities like trekking, mountain climbing, and rafting in an eco-friendly and sustainable way. Anup had already done White Water Rafting with them at Rishikesh and came away very impressed by the organization as well as their skillful and personalized treatment of all members with differing abilities and needs. So when Ajay suggested a high-altitude trek in Spiti, my husband was convinced we would be in professional hands for our very first trek.

It was September when Ajay planned the trek for 9-10 days and since it was a personalized trek and not a group trek, we could be flexible with the number of days. Ajay and Sonam planned much in advance, keeping us in the loop and instructing and encouraging us with information on all aspects of a high-altitude trek. I and Anup knew the technical of reading maps, using hiking poles, trail food, high altitude sickness, and layering all thanks to them. What I found most endearingly fascinating was their respect for the mountains and nature and their insistence on a zero-carbon footprint policy. 

To mysteries of Manali

We took the overnight bus from Delhi to Manali, reaching early morning and staying the day there to acclimatize our bodies to the altitude. A delightful local homestay and fresh locally made food and ginger lemon tea revived our spirits. Ajay and Sonam made us walk up and down the old Manali route and its beautiful forest, where we spent the entire day browsing the old Manali market and eateries, meeting several local friends of Ajay who shared anecdotes about the town making the whole day a special one. Eating lovely wood-fired pizza at a beautiful restaurant and having an interesting conversation about trekking in the Himalayas with the owner and the sun setting colorfully among the mountains wrapped up an eventful day for us.

To the village of Kaza

Early the next day we packed our bags onto a Mahindra Bolero, and had tea and breakfast before setting off for the village of Kaza, the starting point of our trek. The road from Manali to Kaza is not a road at all; the boulders and gravel, interspersed with small streams and ponds in the road make it pretty difficult to navigate even in a four-wheel drive with an experienced driver like ours. The back-breaking journey is full of spectacular views of the Himalayas and the transition of the scenery from green, forested land to the desert-scape above tree line is breathtaking. Quite literally too! On our way, we crossed the iconic Rohtang Pass and with a customary photo shoot at the welcome sign plus the much-needed toilet and tea break with the bright sun warming us to the core, we plied on with our journey. The next stop was at the Kunjum Mata temple to whisper prayers to the winds amidst the fluttering prayer flags- may we have peace!

 Is it me or does the cold rare air of the mountains make everyone just a little crazy because I can’t see why four adults would want to climb the roof of their vehicle and shout and run around like little children in a fair. Hungry and excited, our heart rates elevated, and we reached the famous Chacha-Chachi dhaba to have Rajma Chawal and hot tea with the beautiful couple who runs it. The greetings of ‘Julley’ rang in the air! Wish life could be as simple!

There is a sudden change in the landscape here onwards, with the greenery completely absent and the land looking like an alien planet- moon perhaps? The road is narrow, and higher, with scattered landslides and glimpses of the serpentine Spiti River interspersed with several streams and yellow-brown mountains with craggy rocky visages. Suddenly we turn and get a first glimpse of Kaza. It moves me! Something ancient stirs at the sight of bright blue skies with pristine white clouds touching the snow-clad mountains at the back and the pale blue web-like Spiti River in the fore. Wow! We are awe-struck! All that we had heard was true- it was magnificent. As our jaws dropped, we heard Ajay and Sonam laughing because that was to be our expression for the next few days. We had no idea!

At Kaza, we stayed at another homestay and feasted like locals sitting down with other guests and sharing wonders and stories already. Ajay and Sonam discussed the trek with us and again made us walk around Kaza market up and down to acclimatize. We bought Spiti caps as it was getting colder and drier.

“The back-breaking journey is full of spectacular views of the Himalayas and the transition of the scenery from green, forested land to the desert-scape above tree line is breathtaking”

To the Langza Buddha

It was a clear sunny day as we drove towards Langza with a local resident, discussing local agriculture and politics and of course the weather- the looming winters, the harsh hibernation time for Spiti dwellers. On the way, we got our first glimpse of the famous Ki Monastery. With the familiar visage atop a hill, made very famous by photographers on social media, the iconic monastery totally lives up to its reputation. As you look at the simple mud structure with the backdrop of bare mountains lit by a hot sun in brilliant blue sky with a smattering of sparkling white clouds, your Gurgaon living mind is startled- this place exists in India. Aah! So the photos were not filtered- the sky is that blue only and the clouds are so white. The whole scene looks like a painting.

We were shown around by a charming monk at the monastery, who told us about the rituals and the ancient paintings which are treasured in the monastery. We had tea with him, lighting lamps all the while feeling profoundly peaceful and humbled by the simplicity. Ki Monastery is barely managing to keep the cracks in its old body from showing.

We reached Langza and found our homestay called Sonam tucked away beneath the towering statue of the Buddha. Our beautiful hostess gave us tea and snacks after which we climbed the steps to the iconic Buddha statue of Langza. The scene is straight out of a movie-it is so beautiful, we just could not get enough of it. Langza is at a height of …….. meters and already it was becoming colder and more difficult to breathe especially on physical exertion. Over a fantastic dinner of vegetable stew and bread with a mug of butter tea, we shared stories with the other guests- a Swiss girl and a Canadian boy who had been traveling the Indian mountains for a long time. 

To Komik via Hikkim and the highest Post Office

Our actual trek started the next day as we said goodbye to our hostess, who kindly pointed us in the direction of Hikkim after a sumptuous breakfast. By now we were at an altitude of 4,000 feet and the wind was chilly but the sun made the day warm. I marveled at this dichotomy in Spiti, where we have beauty and harshness; the generosity of the people versus the barrenness of the land. As we walked slowly and prudently utilizing our breaths, water, food, and energy, it became clear that it would be a long day. For me, it was taxing with the load on my back and we had to take frequent breaks to catch our breath as much as for gorgeous scenery. Meandering around the mountain route we found several tough patches, where Sonam was always there to lend me a hand or a word of encouragement.

It was with a feeling of jubilation that we reached Hikkim, where stands the tiny hut with a thatched roof which has the distinction of being the highest Post Office in the world. That’s the beauty in the simplicity of Spiti! We bought many postcards and with the harsh sun shining with its full might, wrote to our loved ones, pasted stamps, got them stamped, and posted them in the little red post box, all the while smiling from ear to ear. The sense of wonder never left!

Ajay, Sonam, and my husband Anup was doing pretty well even at this altitude, but I had started tiring and my head was pounding. As we took one of our breaks, Ajay found a local herb for us to chew on to make our breathing easier. We still had a few hours of trekking left for our destination Komik, the highest village in the world. By now the light had started vanishing, and the wind picked up, blowing the dry topsoil of the valley onto our faces and hair, coating our bags and clothes with a light layer. I was tired, dirty, cold, and ready to give up when we spotted a glimmer of hutments in front of us. Sonam ran ahead to check if they were indeed our homestay and I was glad to see her coming back grinning and waving her hands accompanied by four gorgeous dogs who greeted us wagging their tails joyfully as if they knew us.

The warmth of the Spiti people is legendary; their spirit is like the mountains; their food and hospitality are unmatched as the land they live in. They share! They share their homes, their food, stories, and lives and make friends with complete strangers like us. I felt humbled by the generosity and cheerfulness of our young hosts who, in spite of lacking even basic facilities like electricity and water, managed to produce beautiful food for us. We saw the stars in the clear night marveling at their number and clarity, remembering our childhoods when it was a common sight even in the cities and ruing the fact that our children could not witness this wonder every day.

The Fossil Hill and The One-Eyed Lama Ji

The next day we visited the Monastery at Komik,  lit incense at the altar of the saints, and saw a small museum with a stuffed tiger. Then we met the wonderful shy Lama Ji and a plan was hatched! All plans of going ahead were dropped as Lamaji regaled us with the story of the Fossil Hill. Intrigued by him we decided on the spot to climb this hill with Lamaji leading us and showing us fossils on the way. I was buoyed by the fact that it meant no carrying of bags which we would leave at our Komik homestay. So carrying just one bag of essentials like water, first aid, and trail food, we set off on an adventure. Mind you we were already at an altitude of 4,444 feet and planning to climb a hill! I think the rare air was playing with our heads again!

Lamaji went bouncing up the hilly slope, gravel and all, like a wily mountain goat with my woeful self bringing up the pathetic rear, very damaging to my otherwise healthy self-esteem. The views were dramatically beautiful and soul uplifting. In any case, the mountains make you feel closer to God- there is enduring spiritualism in being close to nature and yet again I questioned my purpose in life. I folded my hands, bent my head, and felt close to tears as gratitude for Him flooded my humble being. It’s the rare air I am telling you! Plays tricks with your soul!

At the first whoop of elation, I lifted my head from my path and saw Sonam cheerfully holding out a lovely fossil of an Ammonite toward us. We gathered to marvel at its beauty before Lamaji threw it away and said better ones lay ahead. The fun had just begun! As the five of us snaked our way steadily up the hill it started becoming steeper. I was struggling now, taking more rest stops than steps and my breathing had become ragged and my head had started aching again. Ajay made me chew the herb again and fortified it with water and raisins I persevered. As the top became visible Lamaji literally danced to the top with a child-like enrapture on his face, laying his treasure bare for us, teeming with wonderful fossils. One of the most unforgettable days of my life! As I sat there resting before our climb down, I thought of the contrast in our lives here and back home.

My spirit soared as the mountains healed my soul, repaired my heart, and made me whole and as always I felt blessed to be alive I firmly held my husband’s hand I saw the reflection in his eyes too. It was there in Ajay and Sonam too and Lamaji was rapturous with it! I marveled at the miracles of everyday living as we slowly started our descent. We gathered around Lamaji like little children listening to his stories and ruining our old knees that ache while coming down the hill. After dinner, we sat under the stars holding hot cups of ginger tea till our teeth chattered, when we shifted base to one bed with two quilts talking late in the night. What a magnificent life.

The steep descent to Kaza with four dogs

Early the next day it was decided that we will go down to Kaza from Komik directly instead of taking the longer and circuitous route. Unaware of what it entailed, I started the descent in high spirits, the friendly four dogs who had met us on our arrival now escorting us all the way away from their home. Spiti is not for the faint of heart, it tests you at every step. As we walked away from Komik after the customary ‘Julley’ and heartfelt thanks, talking and reminiscing the events of the past few days I felt peaceful and brave at having attempted this trek. Little did I know! Spiti was about to put me right in my place!

On our way we met a tempo going towards our destination and he offered to carry our bags and Sonam to the start of the descent a little further away. I was the most relieved though my bag was the lightest. Without the bags I, Anup and Ajay literally strolled through the beautiful landscape, filling in its memories. We saw Sonam sitting with our bags and I was just plain shocked. No way we can go down this mountain- I thought to myself. Everyone laughed at my expression, ribbing me mercilessly and my husband of 27 years cajoled me to at least try it. I knew he is mad but I am definitely a sane person- so why would I do this? I think the rare air of Spiti must have messed with my head. I looked at the Kaza river shining like a serpent in the far valley below us and shook my head.

I pulled my bag up, grinned like the Joker, petted the dog beside me and holding my hiking pole went down the mountain. Spiti is dry and the trails are full of dry, loose gravel which makes it difficult to get a foothold in. With expert guidance from Ajay and Sonam and wisecracks from the husband I slowly and steadily came down. The elation of doing something difficult for the first time is inexplicable and completing it well is remarkably uplifting. My knees ached but did their job, my toenails turned black later but my body supported my mind and unbelievably we descended the mountain to reach Kaza. Our dogs had accompanied us all the way so we fed them biscuits and water and sent them off here. The exhilaration never left me. Not even now-I had done it!

We went back to Manali the next day and stayed there for three days recovering and celebrating my birthday and the trek. Even after reaching home I have gone back again and again to this experience which taught me that our physical boundaries are set in our heads. I believe I have removed some of the shackles! Thank you Spiti! You live in my heart! Always!